The tradition of txakoli in Bakio dates back to the 14th century in this coastal town in Bizkaia, where there are still a few old vines of Hondarrabi Beltza, the red grape variety that once dominated the area.
The Zabala vines are more than 80 years old —some of them surpass 150 years old — and were planted on a plot of land next to the church, around the old winery located in the Basigo family homestead. "Amama (grandmother, in Basque) used to say that the vines were thick even in her childhood,” says Igor Lopategi, who has inherited the family vineyards. Since 2004, his wife, Iratxe Eguskizaga, has been in charge of the day-to-day running of the vineyards and the winery together with Zorione Martínez, who is the winemaker.
In the Basigo vineyard, the very old plants are pergola-trained, but the newer ones are trellised to avoid the humidity problems that are frequent in this coastal area. In total, Iratxe and Igor farm three hectares in two vineyards. As well as Hondarrabi Beltza, there is Hondarrabi Zuri in Basigo, planted by Igor's father some 50 years ago with vines brought from Txomin Etxaniz in Getaria. In the vineyard next to the new winery and the family house in the upper part of Bakio, Iratxe and Igor planted Hondarrabi Zuri, but also some Beltza and Riesling.
Zabala makes four wines and 20,000 bottles and all of them are sold in bars and restaurants in Bakio and on the recently launched online shop. Zabala white and rosé are light, fruity wines made in stainless steel tanks and presented in Rhine bottles, as was customary for txakolis until not so long ago. Both are the largest production wines.
Zabala red comes from old Hondarrabi Beltza vines. It is a well-balanced wine with pepper and red fruit aromas and refreshing acidity, making it a pleasant wine to drink. Only 700 bottles of this wine, sold in burgundy bottles, are produced and are available for €7, the same price as the white and the rosé. Finally, Gaztelugatxe (6000 bottles, €9) is their white which blends Hondarrabi Zuri grapes from the old and the young vineyard as well as 10% Riesling. It is aged on its lees for seven months to obtain more volume on the palate and a greater ageing potential.
Bodegas Zabala welcomes visitors by appointment.
