Ana Mari and Javier opened the doors of Saltxipi in 2007 in an elegant manor house in Gros, a five-minute walk from Zurriola beach in San Sebastian. Their idea was to follow the philosophy of the first Saltxipi, the restaurant they opened in the family farmhouse in Usurbil shortly after they married in 1973. After three decades in the village, they decided to move to the city.
In its early years, explains Gorka Ortega, third generation, the restaurant in Usurbil was known for its cod omelette and cider, made from apples grown at the family's farmhouse, which once produced its own variety of apple, called Saltxipi.
It was the region’s traditional fare, but grandmother Joxepa (amona, in Basque) was a great cook and soon Ana Mari learned from her and improved the menu with traditional dishes such as txangurro (spider crab). Now her son Jon has taken over the stoves of the Donostia restaurant and txangurro is still the speciality of Saltxipi.
In addition to classics such as txangurro in its many forms (salad, croquettes, stuffed peppers, oven baked) Jon —who trained at celebrity chef Karlos Arguiñano's cooking school in nearby Zarautz— has a good command of the grill as evidenced on the day of our visit with some kokotxas (cod’s cheeks) served with their texture intact and a subtle and delicious smoke flavor. Grilled turbot, one of the flagship dishes along this stretch of Basque coastline, is also an option. As for desserts, we recommend the Basque cake with curd ice cream, a local speciality. As well as the à la carte dishes, Saltxipi offers three menus on weekdays (they also have a children's menu) at prices ranging from 60 to 80 euros.
If amona’s cuisine still prevails at Saltxipi, the liquid part has been completely transformed thanks to Gorka, who works as maître and sommelier. "I got into wine in 2008 when I went to a German wine fair," explains Gorka, who helped out in the family restaurant from the age of 14. "Then I studied WSET levels 2 and 3 in Barcelona and I'm still fascinated by what's behind a glass of wine. I like to meet the winemakers in person and pass on their little stories. You meet wonderful people in the world of wine".
With this philosophy, Gorka lists close to a hundred wines from producers that he knows and admires "for their dedication and for capturing the area where they are based" such as Rafael Palacios, Xurxo Alba (Albamar), Pepe Raventós (Raventós i Blanc) or Gómez Cruzado from Rioja, among others. Gorka also stocks classics such as Vega Sicilia, very popular among foreign clients who consider the price (Único Reserva Especial at 350 €) to be affordable. The wine list also includes a handful of foreign wines, especially Champagne, and in keeping with the origins of Saltxipi, half a dozen ciders. There are over a dozen wines by the glass, including some sherry and several sweet wines.
The classic-looking dining room, presided over by a picture of grandad Xanti over the fireplace, is decorated on one of its walls with wine books and (empty) bottles of Echezaux, Vega Sicilia and other great wines enjoyed by Saltxipi customers. The outdoor terrace of the restaurant, one of the few in San Sebastian with parking on the premises, is a very pleasant place to relax and enjoy during the summer days. "My aitona Xanti would be proud to know that we are still going strong 46 years later," concludes Gorka. Y.O.A.
